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Video before I fitted the stuff:
I fix in the air filter and carburettor back to the bike.
When the design of the carb is bad, the toughest part of fixing the carb is to insert the head tip of the throttle cable into the groove in the carb. this process took a full 40 mins for the bandit.
I remember that in my TDM850, I got so frustrated in fixing the throttle tips that I reduced the throttle cables
form 2 to 1, I give up on the retractor cable because I cant fix it in, I only use the the acceleration cable from that point on. The retractor cable is still in my store afer I sold the TDM. I have tested the TDM thorughly with the single cable, it works just fine, went for numerous trip with the bike.
Troubleshooting steps start here - I m keeping my finger crossed as I press the ignition:
start button - cranking but no start.
unscrew carburetor drain screw and see that petrol drip -> got fuel
take out spark plug to see the tip , looks like no spark b4.
ingition button press with spark plug connected but hold in cloth by hand, no spark.
press for a few second and smell petrol from the spark plug hole. - got a/f mixture supplied to engine cylinder.
[at this state, i am starting to panic]
i think problem should be electrical, check all wire connection again.
1 green/black wire on the left side unplug, but i remember this wire was unplug in the
original state when I remove the air box and carb.
open fuse cap check ignition fuse is connected i.e. not blown.
put back the fuse and cap and press start again, it starts.
the bike now ref better than before, looks like the new spark plug helps.
There is white smoke with a 'spark' sound from cone 3 connecting carburetor and engine.,
I think there may a leak in cone 3 as I can see black oil underneath the cone.
That means I need to take the air box and the carb out again to examine.
If there is a crack in the cone, I see cone 2 and 3 got oil below, no wonder this area behind the
engine had a forest of oil, grease and dirt. Should I:
- mend the crack with industrial sealant or
- buy a new cone.
These are qns going on in my mind.
Industrial sealant -> cheaper but may also be reliable.
When David Goh rebuild his GSX1100G he
used the sealant.
http://www.reocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/8858/gsx1100g/g.htm
new cone -> cone 2 to 4 do not have breeder hole for synchronisation, they are cheaper cones (low cost) that was fitted by previous owner. Should I use new cone to allow for carb syn. process ??
Do the carb need to be synchronised at all. ?? May not be if acceleration is smooth.
I will perform further test to gather more info.
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